Saw, guide and clamped piece in place. Angle ruler just for scale. |
Quick on the heels of the Z-saw guide "F" I also got this simpler guide, intended for 90-degree and 45-degree cuts. It also promises to help with parallel sawing.
This is smaller, but it's still quite heavy and the instant appearance is that of robustness and high definition.
It's not simple to claim 90-degree accuracy, and I'm not sure if I can ever expect perfection from something like this. For example, there are more expensive try squares that do little else than verify an angle.
Here the removable guide part is more clearly positioned to the the side of the tool than it was with the "F" guide. I feel more confident about that detail.
Small but effective. |
The guide part itself is smaller and thinner, and I'm not certain it wouldn't sway under the forces hand sawing can produce. It's only secured from the top with two adjustment screws.
Even the first time I could more easily do a 90-degree cut. But I also saw ever-so-slightly lopsided result with a 21x45 profile board – better results may require some experience and the right "touch". But at least while sawing 21x21mm profiled rods, I encountered no problems.
There are two blade thicknesses, and switching between the two means altering between two guide parts, which can be hand-screwed loose and re-inserted in desired order.
The other thickness is the same as with the "F" guide so I could use the saw supplied with that guide and attach the smaller blade with the grip that came with this guide.
The guide plate in place, the angle ruler just for scale. |
From the manual it looks like I could just press the device against a wood piece and cut. Hence the rounded "handle". I much prefer to use clamps.
It's actually possible to remove the handle part, giving a more straight surface for clamping, but as it doesn't make a huge difference I left it on. Who knows, the pressure might be better distributed when it's on.
Again, doing repeats has to be figured out by other means.
I set a reference rod side by side with the work piece using a try square, while clamping them together. Then I inserted the dummy blade to the saw guide, pulled it down against the reference and clamped it to position. This needs to be done carefully as the dummy blade bends easily.
Pulling the guide dummy blade against the reference rod end. |
This way I could get the length to the territory of less than 1/10th of a millimeter accuracy compared to the reference piece. This doesn't sound that bad but actually is rather annoying if you really need the pieces to be of the same length.
For my practical case this was ok, as gluing and clamping resulted in more inaccuracies than my sawing...
But I could do better by using a dedicated stopper. Also, it might be better to rely on something else than the dummy blade.
For the modest gate-like object I'm making, I needed to have 9 equally long rods with preferably no deviation from the 90 degrees. The method I used, this tolerance was bearable and I was pleased enough with the result. Especially the angles appeared to be smooth.
Another way might have been to clamp together multiple rods at once and attempt parallel sawing. Perhaps another time!
The Best saw guide is easier to use for this task than the "F" guide. I'll look into doing the 45 degree cuts later. Is it exaggeration to have both? Perhaps not, as I have no other silent options for making cuts.
Nice enough! |
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